Monday, August 20, 2012

Smørrebrød

from Danish Cooking and Baking Traditions by Arthur L Meyer

Smørrebrød are open sandwiches, artfully arranged with seemingly infinite combinations of meat, fish, vegetables, cheeses and spreads.  Smørrebrød are the soul food of Denmark.  They are eaten for lunch, supper, with drinks, and as a late night snack. Chefs and homemakers alike take pride in a sandwiches' eye appeal as well as in its taste.  Contrasts are appreciated, and so the crunch of walnuts may play against the silkiness of a perfectly cooked egg, or the sweetness of beets with the bitterness of liver paste.

With the endless combination of toppings, there are some guidelines to follow when constructing the perfect open sandwich.  The base is a very thin slice of hearty dark rye bread, such as pumpernickel (although other varieties are used with more delicate toppings), that has been slathered quite liberally with sweet butter.  Toppings must be generously applied, and no part of the buttered bread can be exposed.  Keep in mind that smørrebrød are eaten with a knife and fork, so these sandwiches are always served piled high.  As important as flavor and quantity is presentation.  The ingredients are arranged to be visually striking and colorful. When ordering for the first time in a restaurant in Copenhagen, one cannot go wrong with the "Trinity of Smørrebrød" - a herring sandwich followed by a meat selection, finishing with cheese.


Preparation
There are no formal recipes for smørrebrød; rather suggestions are offered for toppings and combinations. The rest is left to the composer of these delights.

Base: Foremost, there must be a thin slice of generously buttered bread (after all, smørrebrød means butter and bread), usually dark rye, but hearty white bread is sometimes used for delicate fish, especially shrimp.

Basics: These are added first to the buttered bread.  Be sure to cover the entire surface, with no bread showing.  A small piece of crisp lettuce is usually added to one side.

tiny shrimp
smoked salmon
smoked oysters
crabmeat
fried fish fillets
sliced hard-boiled eggs
scrambled eggs
assorted cheeses
meatballs
bacon
raost beef
raw beef (tartar)
grilled calf's liver
roast pork
sardines


Rugbrod
also from Danish Cooking and Baking Traditions by Arthur L Meyer


1 T dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water (105-110 F)
1.5 cups buttermilk (110 F) [180 cals]
2 T molasses [120 cals]
3 cups dark rye flour, preferably stoneground [1320 cals]
1 cup whole wheat flour [440 cals]
about 1.5 t salt

Whole loaf is 2060 calories.  20 slices would be 103 cals each. Each slice should be 0.425 inches thick (almost 7/16").

Advanced preparation: Slowly heat the buttermilk to about 110 F. Heat the oven to 350 F at least one hour before baking.

1. Sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and allow to stand without mixing until the yeast dissolves, about 3 minutes
2. Stir the dissolved yeast and molasses into the warm buttermilk and add this to a warmed mixing bowl of an electric mixer.  Begin to stir with a paddle attachment
3. Slowly add the rye flour, about 1/2 cup at a time, allowing the flour to be absorbed before adding another portion.
4. Switch to a dough hook and add the whole wheat flour, a little at a time, until a smooth, workable dough forms, using more or less wheat flour as required.  Knead 3 minutes.
5. Remove the dough hook and cover the bowl with a damp cloth.  Place it in a draft-free, warm area adn allow dough to ferment and rise 2 hours.
6. Punch down the dough and place in a 9-inch loaf pan.  Cover and allow to rise 1 hour in a warm area.
7. Bake for 1 hour, or until the bread sounds hollow when tapped and the top springs back to the touch.  Allow to cool in a wire rack.

Notes: Sunflower seeds or whole rye grain may be added to the dough.  Use 1/3 cup.  For a darker loaf, 1 T or caramel pwder or instant espresso coffee powder may be added to the rye flour.

My Notes: Added an extra quarter cup of water to thin dough a bit.  First rise only 1 hour on stove at 200F (that's the power of a whole tablespoon of yeast).  Second rise in 4"x4" Pullman pan about 35 minutes.  It was almost to the top, probably could have gone another 10 minutes.  Turned stove up to 350 at start of second rise. After 60 minutes bread was at about 205F in the center. Try 65 minutes next time, it was still a little sticky in the middle.  Also to try next time: dark malt powder from brewing store and pumpkin seeds and/or rye berries.

Danish baker Bøje from Meyers bageri video

Some classic smørrebrød from Oskar Davidsen's 1888 smørrebrød menu:
Ham, sliced egg and meat jelly
Ham with camembert, raw egg yolk and chives
Ham with Bombay curry salad
Ham with vegetable salad
Ham with fried egg
Ham with fried calve's kidney and remoulade
Ham with bird's liver and fried egg
Ham with homemade goose liver paste, Madeira jelly
Bayonne ham, roast beef and meat jelly
Crisp bacon and fried egg
Crisp bacon with tomato and Camembert cheese
Crisp bacon with fried onions
Crisp bacon with creamed mushrooms
Juicy tender salt veal and meat jelly
Freshly boiled tongue with meat jelly
Tongue with Italian salad
Tongue with fried egg
Tongue with homemade goose liver paste
Tongue with sliced egg and meat jelly
Homemade collared pork
Corned brisket of beef with horseradish
Salami sausage, liver paste and meat jelly (the veterinarian's breakfast)
Salami with raw egg yolk, grated horseradish and chopped chives
Russian herring salad with egg
Hot scrambled eggs with smoked salmon on toast
Tomato with scrambled eggs and chives
Tomato, scrambled egg, 2 boned anchovies in oyster sauce and chopped chives
Potkase cheese with raw egg yolk and radishes
fishcake and capers
Eel with scrambled egg, spinach and fried mushrooms
fried fillet of plaice (flounder) and lemon
fried fillet of plaice and remoulade
Pickled herring with raw onion
Potato salad with pickled herring and seasoned beetroot
Freshly smoked herring with raw egg yolk
Freshly smoked herring, egg yolk and sliced radishes
Thinly sliced anchovies, beetroot, raw egg yolk, capers, onion and horseradish
Hot fried eel and remoulade
Cod roe fried with 2 boned anchovies in oyster sauce
"Clipper sandwich" - raw scraped beef, export caviar and smoked salmon
"Hans Andersen's Favorite" - bacon, tomato, liver paste with truffles meat jelly and horseradish
Roast beef with cold Bernaise sauce
Roast beef with potato salad and chives
Slices of juicy steak, parboiled egg, crisp onions and sliced tomato
Roast beef with caviar or horseradish or remoulade
Brisket of beef with tomato and 2 anchovies
Roast duck with red cabbage and cucumber salad
Brisket of beef with pickles
Roast chicken with cucumber and tomato
1/2 young pigeon and stewed tomatoes
Liver paste with truffles, 2 anchovies in oyster sauce and fried egg
Liver paste with cucumber salad
Liver paste with thin slices of crisp bacon and stewed mushrooms
"Vet's Supper" - Liver paste with spiced lard, meat jelly and thinly sliced juicy salt veal
Swiss cheese
Samso
Maribo
Olde Holsteiner cheese with butter or spiced lard
Olde Holsteiner cheese with red currant jelly
Smoked cheese with fresh cucumber and paprika
danish blue cheese with raw egg yolk

Anne Marie Fisker's smorrebrod PDF
Ida Davidsen's in Copenhagen with huge smorrebrod menu
Ida Davidsen shows how to make smørrebrød
Østerbro Delikatessen menu in Aalborg
Peter Lieps Hus in Klampenborg
Danish Food Culture and Cooking with nice pix
Some more pix
Christian's Danish Recipes
www.speakdanish.dk


Apple Soup
AEblesuppe

Sour apples are the secret to this soup, and their tartness should not be masked by the sugar added.  Crushed zwieback crisps are often placed in the bowl before serving.

4 large tart apples such as Granny Smith, Cortland, or Pippin (unpeeled and uncored)
zest of 1 lemon cut into long strips
1/4 t cinnamon or 1 cinnamon stick
sugar to taste
cornstarch stirred into water to make a thin paste

Advanced Preparation: Up to one day in advance, cook the quartered apples in 8 cups water until very tender.  Remove the cooked apples and pass them through a sieve or strainer.  Strain and reserve the cooking liquid.

1. Heat the apple cooking liquid over low heat and stir in the strained apples.  Add the lemon zest and cinnamon.  Simmer 5 minutes over low heat.
2. Remove the lemon zest and add sugar to taste (do not mask the tartness of the apples).
3. Add small amounts of the cornstarch paste, allowing each portion to thicken before deciding to add more, until the coup has a creamy texture.  Simmer 2 minutes.  Serve hot.

Notes: Tart pears would make a delicious fruit soup.  Add a few gratings of nutmeg to replace the cinnamon.  Crushed biscotti or zwieback can be added to the bowls before serving.

Pickled Herring recipes 
How to Pickle Herring
Tyler Florence's Pickled Herring 
Swedish Pickled Herring
How to Salt Herring
How to Salt Sardines 

DR.dk Mad

No comments: